The day started with quite some rain pouring on our van and spoiling our chance to take pictures of Skogafoss. We placed too much trust on the morning to have the best light and did not keep into account the weather. Bummer. We took a couple of pictures in the rain and some directly from the van, parking it literally in the middle of the road. Anyway, we were quite cold, wet and a bit disappointed, so we decided to do ‘Treat yo’ self’ day and we drove few kilometers to the Southernmost city in Iceland, Vik, where we had croissants (surprisingly good) and a cappuccino/hot chocolate. After the good breakfast, we headed towards the main targets of the day: black sand beaches. There are two of them, both actually few Kilometers before Vik, the most famous is Reynisfiara is the most famous one, with black basalt columns -naturally provided with asian tourists- and a very huge amount of deep black sand. The second one, a bit less famous, is called Dyrholaey and here the beach is actually mostly inaccessible for safety reasons, but offers great views and -most important- a vegetation that puffins use for nesting. Here in fact we have seen our first puffins!
The weather was not great when we arrived to Dyrholaey and kept being pretty ugly even when we reached Reynisfiara, despite this seemed like did not stop the mass of tourist sheeps that continuously passed in front of the lens of our cameras. On this beach we also decided to have a photo session far from the tourists, with Ira as the model. No more details about this until the pictures will be ready 🙂
Very satisfied of the photo session, we escaped from the tourists and drove towards a canyon, called with the friendly name of Fjadrargljufur. According to probably only a pamphlet in a visitor center, this canyon is often referred to as the most beautiful in the world. Well, the canyon was actually very nice, the view was stunning from the viewing platform and the waterfalls on the canyon walls contributed to color the landscape and to water the grass that grows all around. If the image of a canyon you have in mind is the one in USA, this is completely different, green and full of life – goats included. At the bottom the tiny river that is responsible for this canyon flows forming a very pleasant image. But. But to get to the canyon we had to take one road. This road in theory is supposed for 4×4 cars only and at the entrance there is written in huge letters that rental cars are not allowed here. When we passed though, a car was parked in front of this signal, so we did not pay much attention. The road itself is not dramatically steep, luckily, but at some points becomes very narrow and full of potholes, and obviously the concrete becomes just a memory, leaving place to gravel and stones instead. To be fair, despite on the way we saw only 4×4 vehicles, at the destination there were other vans similar to ours, so we gained back a bit of confidence. Anyway, once parked and explored the canyon, we jumped back in the car looking for a ‘church-farm-cloister’. Not that we know what this is, but we looked for it anyway, so we reached Kirkjubaejarklaustur, a tiny little city somewhere in the SouthEast. Here we first had a short hike to reach the top of the ‘sister waterfalls’ and to admire a lake hidden inside the hills. After this, still being in the ‘treat yo’self’ philosophy, we decided to eat in a local restaurant, lured by the exterior aspect of the place. We have not been disappointed at all. The food was really good, we have taken a baked chicken breast served with cooked carrots ad baked potato and deep fried haddocks with potatoes. Both the dishes were really good, especially accompained by handmade bread and butter, which was
superlative. The best part anyway came with the dessert, we took an apple pie and a portion of blueberry Skyr, a local yogurt. The Skyr was definitely a discovery, since it was simply crazy good, despite being relatively simple.
Once finished the dinner, heavy from the food and lighter for the wallet, we found a campground to spend the night. There was one really closeby, near yet another waterfall the we visited by mistake earlier. Given the late hour, we decided to stop there rather than moving forward, and we slept there, apparently for free, since there was absolutely nobody from the camping personnel to collect money. We set the alarm at 5, with the aim of waking up at 6, and we went to sleep in our van. What happened next, read the upcoming page of Day 5. 🙂